The sunsets have been awesome- but also a warning. A few hours before the sun's scheduled departure, I'm pouring over charts & finding a safe place to stop before the beautiful sunset is replaced by total darkness. Some of the narrow canals that I've navigated have been long & there's not always time to exit before dark. I usually pay out a minimum chain length of 100ft. With wind & currents, means the boat needs the room to swing that entire radius. In a narrow channel that leaves the only option to anchor right smack in the middle. While this avoids the hazard of being swept onto the bank- it increases by an uncomfortable margin the hazard of being run down by a barge during the night.

Headed for a small horseshoe estuary I was told had deep water by a friend I'd met along the way- I had circled it on my charts. Four miles further & with darkness closing it was no longer an option. Once again luck comes up with plan-B. Just before St-M 330, and just beyond the fixed bridge, my charts showed a possible spot outside the channel with room & plenty of water. Turned out to be an old base for the Army Core of Engineers, and now a well maintained free city dock, with running water (no showers), and seemingly in the middle of nowhere! Just after tying up the sun disappeared, and with it all remaining light. If the moon's due to rise at 7:30- it offers no help when total darkness is scedualed by six. I looked down the canal and watched as the banks quickly & completly disappeared.

Great spot! No internet or phone coverage, but plenty of quiet & fish. Well only one fish, and not two fish or three fish. But we made it work. Mixed with orzo & vegetables, he gave his life to feed three.

Temperatures in the low 30s again & neither boat with heat! We gathered driftwood from the banks, even an old piece of cedar on which to cook the fish. What an incredible comfort when man learned to control fire. unfortunately unable to bring it onto to the boat with me.

We spent two nights docked here. The current being difficult to predict. The first day speeding west around three knots (extremely fast for a current) specially for a boat that struggles to make six. Not worth the extra fuel. The following day it slowed to a trickle, but eastbound. Time to move on

We motored the remaining canal & into lake Wimico. A beautifully pristine lake, not one structure or house erected on its banks. The lake is very shallow (4 to 5ft average). Without deep water for boat docks, developers most likely passed on it. Amazing wildlife being the result- with alligators & eagles taking up residence.

There's a narrow channel, well marked, that zig zags across the lake. Important to stay within. Also important to keep an eye on the marker behind you! I've discovered that were it possible to safely approach the next from any angle- there would be no need for a marker!

We exited the lake and into the Jackson river flowing from its east bank. We hadn't seen a soul or a sign of civilization all day. Found a small offshoot, again just before dark- anchor down by sunset. The following day we entered the Apalachicola river and followed it to its end. A sleepy fishing village with great people.

Found another free city dock. Talking with some old-timers getting locations on services in town & advice on the jump to Clearwater. One ask if I'd like to borrow a bike? Trick question old man!

We purchased 40lbs of oysters from a boat that had just docked. Rinsed the mud off with a net, then shucked & applied hot sauce right on the pier. My sprout harvest was ready, so I prepared some small side salads. I carry a lot of mung bean, green lentils, wheat berries, and others- usually harvest every couple days.

So this is the end of the line- beyond the bridge is open ocean. The ICW that I've followed to this point continues east to Carrabelle, then picks up again in Tampa. Though our route will take us south through Government cut & St George Island. Once reaching green marker #1, my charts show a bearing of 316 degrees magnetic- and if all goes well we should emerge from the ocean void some 140 miles later near Clearwater.

Besides my charts to guide me, I've several publications (waterway guides). One which I'll quote, offers this advice- "If eastbound from Apalachicola, you have an important decision to make about your route to the west coast of Florida. Most cruisers look at the charts and figure it is a quick easy deep water passage on a nearly straight shot across the Gulf of Mexico. Wrong!!" "The waters in the Gulf are relatively shallow and when the wind blows over 15 knots, which it often does in winter, the Gulf can serve up steep sided waves that some describe as like trying to sail over 18 wheelers". "For slower boats, those with inexperienced crews, and during winter months, think seriously about the decision". "Slow boats taking the direct route overnight should consider the following: If the weather turns nasty, you will have to ride it out. You will be to far from land to make safe harbor. You can't divert and make landfall in any of the protected harbors on the Big Bend, because these harbors are not recommended for nighttime navigation. During bad weather at night, visibility is poor and conditions frightening. You can't see most objects floating & greatly increase your chances of striking something. Your VHF has an effective range of only 25 miles, during most of the trip you will be out of radio communication range and unable to call for help even if you want to. Much to late to turn back